The Perfect Pear

Wherever apples grow, pears will grow too but they do need some slightly different care and attention.Few pears are self fertile, ‘Conference’ and ‘Concorde’ can be self fertile, but often this depends on the right conditions and it is best to buy two pear trees. However, one is hoping there are a few pear trees up the allotment site already, so you maybe lucky, and pollination should occur.

Cultivation

Pears love fertile soil and a loam based soil is advisable. It is best to dig out a hole a few weeks in advance, dig in well rotted manure and then come back to the area a few weeks later to plant the pear tree. Fork in a general fertiliser too (90g/sqm). Plant during late autumn or spring but always make sure the weather and soil conditions are favourable. Bush trees and Espaliers or Fans need to be planted roughly 4.5m apart, whereas dwarf pyramids need 1.5m and cordons need 75cm spacing apart. Remember to thoroughly water your pear tree, as they are vigorous in growth .

During subsequent years, in the latter part of winter, feed you pear trees with sulphate of potash followed by sulphate of ammonia in spring. Every third year it is advisable to apply Superphosphate or a top dressing annually.

What Rootstock? The rootstock affects the size and rate of growth of your pear tree. Quince C is a dwarf stock, perfect for training cordons, espaliers and fans. Whereas Quince A is semi-vigorous and Pear stock is vigorous and the latter is worth avoiding if you do not have much space.

Pruning

A tree planted when three years old should fruit within two/three years but pruning correctly always helps.

A majority of the same principles about pruning apples applies to pruning pears. But established bush pears can be cut back harder than apples. Always removing crossing, overcrowded branches to leave an open structure and remove any stems that look particularly weak or are showing signs of frost damage, pest or disease damage.

Cordons/Espaliers/Dwarf Pyramids: Pruning is always earlier for pears than apples. As the tree matures, producing many spurs, these should be thinned in winter.

For Espaliers; in the first summer tie the central growth to the vertical cane and the next two shoots to canes at 45degree angles. Cut back all other shoots to two leaves. In winter cut back the leader to two buds to above the second wire and repeat this until the espalier covers all the wires.Once established cut back new shoots to three leaves each summer.

For Dwarf Pyramids; After planting cut back the lead shoot by a third and cut side shoots back to roughly 15cm. In the first Summer cut back new growth on the main side shoots to five leaves and reduce other new growth to one leaf. During the winter thin congested spurs.

Harvesting and Storage

Picking the pear at the right time is crucial. For years my grandmother picked her pears too early and I must admit it is a surprise I still have all my teeth! The pear should be ripe, but do not leave it any longer otherwise the pear will soon decay.They should come off from the stem with a slight twisting action. Store pears in a cool place(2-4degreees), usually in trays, and make sure the pears do not touch one another. Alternatively, they are ready to eat or can be cooked.

Pests and  Diseases

Pests to be on the look out for: Codling Moth, aphids, caterpillars, red spider mite, tortrix moth, leaf blister mites.

Diseases and disorders to be on the look out for: Boron deficiency, brown rot honey fungus, fire blight, scab and stony pit.